Mallomars are back.
This may not be much of a deal to you. But Nabisco keeps Mallomars off the market during the summer because it’s impossible to keep the dark chocolate cladding from melting. Rather than changing the formulation to the detrement of the cookie’s perfectly balanced taste and texture, Nabisco just takes the summer off.
But when the weather cools, the familiar screaming yellow sealed box shows up on shelves, sure as the robins show up in the spring, sure as the swallows return to Capistrano, sure as the buzzards come back to Hinkley.
Other bakeries make biscuits with graham crackers, marshmallows and chocolate; the BBC, of all places, has produced a neat taxonomy of them. (And I didn’t realize that New York City eats 70 percent of all Mallomars.) I’ve tried some of the pretenders, and I really ought to search out Moon Pies for a re-taste. But all others just pale.